Thailand Places

Whether it is riding in the back of an open tuk-tuk or racing across the waves in a longtail boat, a journey through Thailand’s islands always feels like a real adventure. Thailand’s beauty is no secret, but there are still a few wonders that remain relatively under wraps. In this excerpt from an article originally by Oliver Berry, Lonely Planet Magazine takes you deeper into the Thai islands.

Khao Sok National Park

About two hours’ drive north of Phuket, this national park includes one of the oldest lowland rainforests on Earth, dating back 160 million years. Covering 460sq miles, it’s home to some of Thailand’s rarest flora and fauna, including sunbears, barking deer and clouded leopards, plus more than 300 bird species.
The best way to visit is on a guided hike, ideally in the dry season of December-April. Bungalows and eco-lodges dot the park’s edges

The pristine bay of Ao Noi on the island of Ko Phi-Phi Don. Photo by Catherine Sutherland

Ko Tarutao

Few people make the long journey south to the islands of the Ko Tarutao Marine National Park, but if you’re looking for pristine island scenery, this is certainly where you’ll find it. This enormous national park encompasses 51 islands, most of which are uninhabited and covered in virgin rainforest. They are a haven for all kinds of birds, animals and underwater life, and have some of the healthiest coral reefs in Thailand. Base yourself on the island of Ko Tarutao, where you can sleep in bungalows.

Ko Kut

It’s only a quick trip from the popular island of Ko Chang on Thailand’s Gulf Coast, but Ko Kut receives far, far fewer visitors. It’s still remarkably underdeveloped - there are only around 20 small resorts dotted along its heavily forested coastline, and nearly every one has its own patch of private beach. Active types will find plenty of opportunities for diving, hiking and snorkelling, but for most people, Ko Kut is simply a place to kick back and watch the island tides roll by (kokood.com).

A beach cleaner sweeps the sands of Hat Laem Thong. Photo by Catherine Sutherland

Getting around

Most islands are served by regular passenger ferries, although sailings and timetables are highly weather-dependent, especially in May-October. One of the largest operators is Tigerline Travel, which runs to islands including Ko Tarutao, Ko Lanta, Ko Phi-Phi, Ko Kradan, and Phuket. Tuk-tuks are the easiest way to explore on dry land, although scooters and bicycles can usually be hired.
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For many people, riding on the back of an elephant in Thailand is the ultimate bucket list experience. However, there’s now overwhelming evidence to support claims by animal welfare experts that this form of tourism is not only unsustainable, but ultimately harmful for Asia’s gentle giants.

You can barely turn a corner in Thailand without seeing a billboard touting elephant rides or shows, but, bafflingly, the nation has yet to implement laws to protect its captive elephant population. Unbeknown to many travellers, newly-captive and captive-born Asian elephants are traditionally subject to systematic abuse in order to ‘train’ them to accept riders and perform in shows. It might also come as a surprise to learn that elephants don’t have very strong backs. Experts claim that adult elephants can only support a maximum of around 150kgs on the middle of their back for up to four hours per day, but many of Thailand’s elephants work eight hour shifts, carrying two riders at a time. Metal seats, which tend to be used over lighter bamboo versions, add an extra 50kgs. And this is before factoring in whether these elephants have adequate access to water, healthy food (not just sugary bananas handed out by tour operators) and shade.
Armed with this information, it’s easy to argue that supporting elephantourism in Thailand – and across Southeast Asia – is wrong. However, Thailand’s elephant ‘problem’ is a complex issue. There are thought to be less than 5,000 elephants left in Thailand, yet a whopping 4,000 of them are captive – and the latter still need to be fed and exercised, and financially support their mahout (traditional carer). Following Thailand’s 1989 ban on using elephants for logging, many mahouts claim that without charging tourists for rides and shows, they would starve alongside their charges – which alone cost a minimum of 1,000B per day to feed properly.
Fortunately, there are a small but growing number of elephant refuge centres in Thailand that are employing more sustainable methods to keep tourists, elephants and their mahouts happy. Read on to learn about five of the most rewarding elephant interactions Thailand has to offer – all of which run comprehensive volunteering programs if a short visit isn’t enough.

Elephants at Boon Lott Elephant Sanctuary. Image by Katherine Connor

Elephants at Boon Lott Elephant Sanctuary, Thailand.

Boon Lott’s Elephant Sanctuary (BLES), Sukhothai

Featured in Lonely Planet’s top 10 unforgettable family travel experiences for 2015, BLES was founded by Briton Katherine Connor after a courageous baby elephant called Boon Lott (‘survivor’ in Thai) inspired her to dedicate her life to nurturing rescued and retired elephants. In the decade since, Connor has been recognised by the International Fund for Animal Welfare for her efforts. Guests at BLES, located outside the village of Baan Tuek, an hour from Sukhothai airport, are involved in all aspects of sanctuary life, from collecting elephant food from the jungle to maintaining herding areas and walking elephants to grazing grounds.
Do it: Overnight visit (including transfers and all meals): 5,000B. Due to its remote location BLES does not run single-day tours – most visitors stay for several days on individually-tailored itineraries.

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Elephant Nature Park, Chiang Mai.

Elephant Nature Park, Chiang Mai

Thailand’s best-known elephant rehabilitation centre has won dozens of awards for its commitment to rescuing and rehabilitating Thailand’s working elephants since the ‘90s. On a one-day visit to Elephant Nature Park, about 60kms from Chiang Mai, you’ll get the chance to hear the elephants’ stories before feeding them, and then walking them down to the river for an afternoon bath.
Do it: One day tour (including transfers and lunch): 2,500/1,250B (adult/child). Overnight tour (including dinner): 5,800/2,900B.

Tourists help to bathe an elephant at ElephantsWorld, Kanchanaburi. Image by Sarah Reid / Lonely Planet

ElephantsWorld, Kanchanaburi

Founded by a Thai vet to function as a retirement home for sick, old, disabled, abused, illegal and street elephants, ElephantsWorld (elephantsworld.org) is a more modest operation than Elephant Nature Park, but operates in a similar manner. In the spirit of the centre's motto 'we work for the elephants, the elephants do not work for us', visitors to Elephants World, 32kms from Kanchanaburi, are invited to help to gather or plant food in the fields that sustain the younger elephants’ enormous appetites, and/or cook sticky rice for the older guys before joining some of them for bath time in the River Kwai.
Do it: One-day tour (including transfers, lunch and water): 2,000/1,200B. Overnight tour (including dinner): 4,500/3,200B.

Visitors to ElephantsWorld help to fertilise vegetables for the elephants. Image by Sarah Reid / Lonely Planet

Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand, Petchaburi

Based 30kms from the seaside resort of Hua Hin, WFFT runs nine animal welfare projects across Thailand ranging from an elephant refuge and education centre to a marine research and rescue outfit and a gibbon rehabilitation program. The elephant refuge camp is equipped for day visits, during which guests will learn about the conservation issues threatening Thailand’s elephants before taking some of the residents for their daily walk and shower. Visitors will also follow WFFT’s volunteers on their feed out to the 350 rescued animals at the centre, and get to see the bears and monkeys enjoy their meal.
Do it: One-day visit (including transfers and lunch): 1,800B.

Lunch time at ElephantsWorld, Kanchanaburi. Image by Sarah Reid / Lonely Planet

The Surin Project, Surin

Not far from the Cambodian border, this innovative not-for-profit is focused on improving the living conditions of Asian elephants and providing sustainable economic revenue for their mahouts in the local community. A one-week minimum volunteering stint is required to visit the Surin Project (surinproject.org), located about an hour northwest of Surin city. During their stint, volunteers primarily help to plant, maintain and harvest elephant food for the project’s 13 permanent residents, and assist in the development of elephant-friendly tourism options for the elephants and mahouts of Surin province.
Do it: One week (all-inclusive): 13,000B.
What to wear (and bring) to an elephant centre: Lightweight clothing (with long sleeves/pants for overnight visits), swimwear, towel, a change of clothes (if bathing with elephants), sunhat, sunscreen, DEET-free insect repellent and sturdy shoes. Volunteers should expect basic facilities.
Lonely Planet Destination Editor Sarah Reid (@sarahtrvls) visited Thailand as a guest of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (uk.tourismthailand.org). Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies for positive coverage.

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